Question 1

Are you licensed and insured?

Accepted Answer

Yes, fully licensed and insured. Certificates available before any job begins — just ask.

Question 2

Do you give free estimates?

Accepted Answer

Yes, every estimate is free and on-site. Usually scheduled within 48 hours of your call.

Question 3

What's your service area?

Accepted Answer

Louisville and Jefferson County, all of Bullitt County, Nelson County (Bardstown, Cox's Creek, Boston), and Hardin County (Elizabethtown corridor).

Question 4

Do you handle small jobs?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we'll do single-pad concrete pours, short driveways, and small trench work. If it's truly tiny, we batch it with nearby work to keep cost down.

Question 5

Do you do emergency work?

Accepted Answer

When we can. Sewer lateral failures, sinkholes, washouts after storms — call us first thing and we'll see what we can do.

Question 6

What's the timeline from quote to start?

Accepted Answer

Most jobs start within 1–3 weeks of accepting the written quote, depending on weather and current schedule.

Question 7

Do you require a deposit?

Accepted Answer

Usually 25% to lock in the schedule, with progress payments tied to milestones. We'll spell it out in the quote.

Question 8

What forms of payment do you accept?

Accepted Answer

Check, ACH, and major credit cards. We don't operate cash-only — that's a red flag in this trade.

Question 9

Will you provide references?

Accepted Answer

Yes, with the customer's permission. Ask for two references on similar jobs near you.

Question 10

Do you warranty your work?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Concrete carries a 1-year workmanship warranty. Excavation/grading work is warrantied against settling caused by improper compaction.

Question 11

Concrete: How long before I can drive on a new concrete driveway?

Accepted Answer

Wait 7 days for cars and 28 days for heavy trucks or RVs. The slab keeps gaining strength for a month — patience now means no cracks later.

Question 12

Concrete: Do you use rebar or wire mesh?

Accepted Answer

On Kentucky clay soil, we recommend #4 rebar on 18-inch grids for driveways. Wire mesh is fine on smaller patios but doesn't hold up under repeated vehicle loads on expansive soil.

Question 13

Concrete: How thick should my driveway be?

Accepted Answer

4 inches for cars, 5–6 inches if you'll park a truck, dually, or RV. We always pour over a properly compacted gravel base — that's where most failures actually start.

Question 14

Excavation: What's the minimum job size you'll take?

Accepted Answer

We don't have a strict minimum, but if it's under a half day's work we usually batch it with another nearby job. Call us — if we can't do it ourselves we'll tell you who can.

Question 15

Excavation: What if you hit rock?

Accepted Answer

Kentucky has a lot of limestone, especially in Bullitt and Nelson counties. We quote a rock surcharge upfront — typically $100–$200 per hour for hammer work — so there's no surprise mid-dig.

Question 16

Excavation: Do you call in utility locates?

Accepted Answer

Always. We call 811 at least 48 hours before we dig — every time, no exceptions. Hitting a gas line or a fiber bundle is a bad day for everyone.

Question 17

Grading: How much slope do I need away from my house?

Accepted Answer

Code minimum is 6 inches of fall in the first 10 feet — about 5%. We aim for that or better. Most wet-basement calls we get trace back to grade pitched the wrong way.

Question 18

Grading: Can you fix standing water in my yard?

Accepted Answer

Almost always — it's some combination of regrading, swales, French drains, or downspout extensions. We'll diagnose it first, then quote.

Question 19

Grading: What's the difference between rough and finish grade?

Accepted Answer

Rough grade gets the dirt within 1–2 inches of final elevation and overall shape. Finish grade is the final smoothing pass — within a half inch — ready for sod, seed, or pavement.

Question 20

Land Clearing: How much does it cost to clear an acre in Kentucky?

Accepted Answer

Light brush runs $500–$2,500 per acre. Mature hardwood with stumps runs $3,500–$8,000+. Forestry mulching is in the middle. Density of trees and what you do with the wood drives the price.

Question 21

Land Clearing: Do I need a burn permit?

Accepted Answer

Yes — Kentucky requires a burn permit from the county fire marshal for open burning of cleared brush. There's also a statewide outdoor burning ban Oct 1–Dec 15 and Feb 15–Apr 30. We help you pull the permit.

Question 22

Land Clearing: What's forestry mulching?

Accepted Answer

A drum mulcher mounted on a skid steer or excavator chews trees and brush into a fine mulch layer right where they stood. No haul-off, no burn pile, leaves a clean usable surface. Great for selective clearing.

Question 23

Utility Installation: How deep does a water line need to be in Kentucky?

Accepted Answer

Minimum 30 inches below grade — that's the Kentucky frost line. We typically bury at 36 inches to be safe and to clear most landscape work.

Question 24

Utility Installation: Can you bore under my driveway instead of cutting it?

Accepted Answer

For most residential water and electric runs, yes — we can directional bore under driveways and sidewalks. Sewer with a slope requirement usually needs an open trench.

Question 25

Utility Installation: How do I know if my sewer lateral is failing?

Accepted Answer

Recurring backups, slow drains across the whole house, sinkholes near the line, or roots in cleanouts. We can run a camera before quoting a full replacement.

Question 26

Site Prep: How long does site prep take for a new home?

Accepted Answer

On a clean residential lot, 3–7 working days. Wooded lots with significant clearing or tear-downs can run 2–3 weeks. Weather is the wild card in Kentucky spring.

Question 27

Site Prep: Do you coordinate with the surveyor and builder?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we work directly off the builder's plot plan and the surveyor's stakes. We won't move dirt without pins in the ground.

Question 28

Site Prep: Will you install the construction entrance and silt fence?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Both are required by Jefferson County and most surrounding jurisdictions before you start vertical construction. We install per the SWPPP.

Question 29

Decks: Pressure-treated, cedar, or composite — what should I pick?

Accepted Answer

PT is the budget-friendly workhorse and lasts 15–25 years with regular sealing. Cedar looks beautiful and ages naturally but costs more. Composite (Trex/TimberTech) is the lowest maintenance — no staining ever — but costs the most up front. We'll talk you through the math for your situation.

Question 30

Decks: Do I need a permit for a deck in Louisville or Bullitt County?

Accepted Answer

Yes for any deck over 30 inches off grade or attached to the house. We pull the permit and handle the inspection. Free-standing low patios under 30 inches usually don't need one.

Question 31

Decks: How long does it take to build a deck?

Accepted Answer

Most residential decks take 5–10 working days from footing pour to final railing — weather permitting. Larger multi-level or composite jobs run 2–3 weeks.

Question 32

Pergolas: Cedar or pressure-treated for a pergola?

Accepted Answer

Cedar looks better, smells better, and weathers to a beautiful silver-gray. PT is cheaper and lasts plenty long if you stain it. Cedar's the upgrade most folks are happy they made.

Question 33

Pergolas: Do I need a permit for a pergola in Kentucky?

Accepted Answer

Most freestanding pergolas under 200 sq ft don't need a permit in Jefferson, Bullitt, and Nelson counties — but attached pergolas usually do. We confirm before quoting.

Question 34

Pergolas: Can you install an aluminum louvered pergola I bought?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We install StruXure, Sojag, Yardistry, Pergola Kits Direct, and most major brands. We'll pour the footings, set the posts, and torque every connection per spec.

Question 35

Covered Porches: Will a new porch roof look like it was always part of the house?

Accepted Answer

When we build it, yes. We match your roof pitch where possible, use the same shingle line, and tie flashing in correctly. The dead giveaway on bad add-ons is a flat-roof porch tacked onto a steep roof — we avoid that.

Question 36

Covered Porches: Can you screen in my existing porch?

Accepted Answer

Yes — screening an existing covered porch is much cheaper than building from scratch. Typical screen-in runs $3,500–$7,500 with kick rails and a screen door.

Question 37

Covered Porches: Three-season vs four-season room?

Accepted Answer

Three-season uses single-pane windows and isn't insulated — it's cheaper and great for spring through fall. Four-season is essentially an addition with HVAC and insulation, and costs roughly twice as much. We do both.

Question 38

Patios & Outdoor Living: How long does a properly built paver patio last?

Accepted Answer

30+ years if the base is right. The pavers themselves last basically forever — what fails is the base under cheap installs. We dig deep, compact, and use fabric. That's why ours don't sink.

Question 39

Patios & Outdoor Living: Pavers or stamped concrete — which is better?

Accepted Answer

Pavers cost more but flex with the soil and individual pieces can be replaced. Stamped concrete is cheaper but cracks are permanent and noticeable. Both are great when installed right.

Question 40

Patios & Outdoor Living: Do I need a permit for a paver patio?

Accepted Answer

Usually no, as long as it's not over 30 inches above grade. Retaining walls over 4 feet generally do need an engineered permit — we handle that.

Question 41

Driveways: Concrete or asphalt — which lasts longer?

Accepted Answer

Concrete usually wins on lifespan (30+ years vs 15–20 for asphalt) and looks better, but costs more upfront. Asphalt is cheaper, faster to install, and easier to patch. We do both — depends on your budget and how the driveway is used.

Question 42

Driveways: How long before I can drive on a new concrete driveway?

Accepted Answer

Foot traffic in 24 hours, light vehicles in 7 days, full loads in 28 days. We'll tape it off and tell you exactly when.

Question 43

Driveways: Why does my old driveway crack and sink?

Accepted Answer

Almost always a bad base. Cheap installs skip the excavation and compaction step. We dig deep, compact in lifts, and use the right reinforcement — that's why ours don't sink.

Question 44

Retaining Walls: Why do retaining walls fail?

Accepted Answer

Three reasons, almost always: no drainage behind the wall (water builds hydrostatic pressure and pushes it over), no geogrid on walls over 4 feet (the wall tips forward), or a bad base (the wall settles unevenly). We do all three right.

Question 45

Retaining Walls: Block, boulder, or poured concrete?

Accepted Answer

Block is most common — clean look, modular, fast to build. Boulder is great for natural-looking walls and steeper slopes. Poured concrete is the strongest and best for very tall walls or when you need a specific architectural look.

Question 46

Retaining Walls: Do I need a permit for a retaining wall?

Accepted Answer

Walls under 4 feet (measured from the bottom of the footing) usually don't. Anything taller almost always needs an engineered design and a permit — Bullitt, Jefferson, Nelson, and Hardin counties all require it. We coordinate the engineer and pull the permit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Book Your Free Estimate